This was our anniversary-honeymoon-backpacking-trip-to-the-Grand Canyon! Our plan was to drive up to the north rim (monument point rather), hike down the canyon, stay 4 nights, go on all sorts of day excursions, and hike back out. The problem: too much snow on the north rim. Curtis called ahead and all the park rangers were told a different story about the exact amount of snow. We were skeptical, but we brought some cross country skis just in case.
Even as we were driving there, we could see where we were going and we were scoffing at the lack of snow. As soon as the paved road ended and the park road started, there was snow on the road. Not too much because there had obviously been a snow plow through here. It was easy going until we passed the ranger station and BAM the plowed part ended with a small mountain of snow. But it was no match for our SUV. We drove right over the snow speed bump. It was about a mile from that point where the car got stuck in the 2.5 feet of snow on the road. Curtis spent the next 2.5 hours digging us out by chopping down trees with a shovel in order to get us some traction under the wheels. When we were free, we decided we could probably snow ski the estimated 13 miles to the trail head so off we went.
I had never skied before (down-hill or cross country) or even watched someone cross country ski. I thought Curtis would be able to teach me and I'd pick it up pretty quickly. Before we took off I asked if he had any advice. He said, "just walk." I can assure you skiing is not as simple as walking. Needless to say it was slow going. I fell more than a dozen times in the first mile (backpack and all).
Each successive mile was better, but we were exhausted and fatigued. At 5pm we had only gone about halfway (6 miles), so we decided to head back. It was a race against sunset to get back to the car. We made it to the car, but Curtis got us stuck in the snow again (by that time the warm sun had softened the snow and there was no way we were getting out). So we spent the night in the car.
The next morning we got out with out too much trouble. (Curtis just had to drive in reverse for 1 mile.) We drove 4 hours to get to the south rim, hoping for a backpacking permit. There weren't any permits for that night so we decided to camp out in the campground and go on a practice hike that afternoon...
That was our "practice hike" at hermits' rest. We were encouraged by how easy it was to hike upwards.
That night was below freezing. (23-27 degrees) But we didn't freeze too much. The following
day we had a permit to hike down the canyon. Here we are at the top of the Bright Angel trail...
Taking a snack break on the trail...
Looking up at how far we've come.
Here was our campsite at Indian Garden. We got there by lunch (it was only 5 miles from the top). We decided to spend the day resting at the campsite. We read books about survival, search and rescue, and national parks. (No, we didn't carry all those books down, there was a library at the campsite.)
The next day there was another 4 miles to our campsite. Here's a picture of a small portion of the trail. It was more downhill. See all the switchbacks?
Finally we reached the bottom! Behold! The Colorado River!
The next task was to cross the river to get to our campsite: by way of clanky swaying bridge...
...scariest thing ever! By this point the sun was warm and the cacti were plentiful. Let our vacation begin.
We reached our campsite by 10am so we ate an early lunch and set out for a day hike (no backpacks) to a waterfall. It was about 12 miles round trip. Definitely doable when you don't have 35-45 lb packs on your backs.
The waterfall was such a disappointment that I won't bother putting up a picture. The walk was energizing and disabling at the same time. Let's just say that afterward I wanted to do this...
...and not walk anymore. Ouch. I felt much better the next day and after some Ibuprofen, we were ready to start the hike up. We took the Kaibob trail out. It is 2 miles shorter than the Bright Angel trail, but much steeper. Here was the bridge on the Kaibob side. It was much wider and more sturdy.
We were passed by some of the most famous mules in the world. Apparently they take these mules down and up the canyon every day with supplies for the CABINS at the bottom. So for future reference; you can get reservations at the cabins with the bunk beds and the clean sheets and just worry about bringing a small backpack with water and snacks. Oh well, we enjoy the challenge of carrying our own tent and sleeping bags on our backs...
...although it kinda makes you feel like a mule. But all in all we really enjoyed our trip. Can you get a better view?
I attacked that hill, setting the pace and getting us out of the canyon (7 miles up extremely steep hill) in 3 hours 40 minutes. I'm awfully proud of my athleticism lately. I'm at my lowest weight ever and it makes things like this easier than I ever thought possible.
